Summer 2013 6PAC Plan

Now that I’ve completed SWAP, I am hooked on the idea of capsule collections. Lucky for me, I’m not the only one. There is a thread on Stitcher’s Guild dedicated to 6-piece collections of basic wardrobe items, complete with seasonal guidelines.

Here are the Summer guidelines:

1. a jacket or cardigan that will set the tone for the whole collection – in neutral
2. a pair of trousers or shorts or a skirt in the same neutral (but not necessarily EXACTLY the same — can vary in shade or texture)
3. another bottom in the second color
4. an underlayer top in the neutral
5. an underlayer top in the color
6. an overlayer top in a linking print or in the color

Here’s my plan based on a combination of these guidelines and what I need/want in my closet. Though, the only pieces I’m set on doing are the white top, white jeans, and navy jeans.  The navy top will happen, but possibly in a different pattern, and I’m not sold on either of the jackets. I made a muslin of M5668 last week, and didn’t love the fit. I think I may need to go down a size (or two). The jacket may just be too boxy for my tastes. I seem to be drawn to more fitted silhouettes lately.

I started with the white Simplicity 1613 top. After cutting all of the pieces out, I felt like it was a jigsaw puzzle that was in no way ever going to come together. It took far longer than I care to admit to figure out how the pieces worked, even though the instructions are long and full of pictures. Finally, I stopped thinking about it and just did what the directions were telling me to. Of course, that worked just fine the first time. I have the front neck detail sewn, and am now veering from the instructions to flat-set the sleeves. I hope to finish this in the next few days.

SWAP 2013: Sunset on the Beach

I have officially completed Artisans Square/Stitchers Guild SWAP 2013. Sewing has been done for several weeks. Photos were submitted two days ago. For background on SWAP, see my previous post or Stitcher’s Guild.

I am calling my 2013 SWAP “Sunset on the Beach.” The first collection was inspired by the colors of sunset while the second collection was inspired by colors seen on the beach. Combined, you get “Sunset on the Beach.” Both collections are meant to be casual/dressy casual.

My linking piece is a black ponte knit jacket that works with both colorways, inspired by White House Black Market’s tiered ruffle jacket. I started with Simplicity 1919 and redrafted the front pieces to fit the stand collar and ruffle lines.

Sunset collection consists of:

• Red skinny jeans, modified from my self-drafted jeans pattern in a lightweight stretch denim
• Jeans from my self-drafted jeans pattern in a medium blue stretch denim with dark red topstitching and embroidered back pockets to fit with the colors of the sunset theme
• A red knit top, made with Hot Patterns Festival Fringe, a free pattern on fabric.com, although I didn’t follow the instructions and sewed the scarf piece on differently to hid the raw edges
• A multi-color floral smocked ITY print top, made with New Look 6735, without the neckband
• A modified purchased multicolor variegated tank top that I cut apart, then used like fabric using the main pieces from New Look 6735

Beach collection includes:

• A black ponte knit skirt, Butterick 5566 in a black ponte knit (same as the linking jacket). I eliminated the zipper and used an elastic faced waistband.
• A polka dot elastic waist skirt, self-drafted (if it even counts as drafting – I cut a piece of elastic the size of my waist and sewed fabric to it without even measuring the fabric)
• A white lightweight knit top, made from Hot Patterns Festival Fringe, a free pattern on fabric.com, without the scarf detail. I added a hand-tacked rope of twisted fabric to give the neckline more visual interest.
• A sand colored top in a smocked-look knit that really had very little stretch to it, made again with a neckband-less New Look 6735
• A missoni-esque variegated sweater-type knit top in shades of blue and green, made with New Look 6735

Sewing with a Plan

I’m finding that while I’m doing a lot of sewing, I’m not as good about taking pictures of what I make. I haven’t mastered the mirror shot or the timer on my camera, and am relying on my family to play photographer. Of course, when they have time/motivation to help, I’m not in the mood, and vice versa. So…in the time since my last post, I’ve made 2 pairs of regular jeans, and a pair of red skinny jeans, all of which I love, none of which have been photographed.

I’ve also discovered and modified a new TNT (tried and true) pattern for a basic scoop neck t-shirt (New Look 6735) and V-neck dolman/kimono/cut-on sleeve style shirt (Hot Patterns free Festival Fringe).

I’ve joined SWAP (Sewing With A Plan), a yearly contest run on Stitcher’s Guild (Artisan’s Square).  The rules change each year. This year, SWAP is based around the idea of 2 distinct capsules. We are given 2 different options for each capsule (and can make 1 of each or 2 of the same). Option 1 has 2 tops, 1 bottom, and 1 dress.  Option 2 has 3 tops and 2 bottoms.  Regardless of which options you choose, you must also sew an additional garment that works with both capsules (a jacket seems to be the most common).

I decided to name my SWAP “Sunset on the Beach.” One capsule is based on the colors of the sunset and the other on the colors of the beach. Both capsules are based on Option 2, with 3 tops and 2 bottoms.

The blue stars are items that are done (the red jeans just need a hem, hence the almost star on them). All that’s left is 2 tops, neither of which is set in stone. I’m working on a muslin/test of the Sorbetto top, not sure if I’m going to like the fit.  And the other top is fabric I love, but that doesn’t work with the skirt (not that it necessarily has to, but it would be nice).

The deadline was recently extended from April 30 to May 10, which helps a lot. And, since photos are (obviously) required, I’ll have good photos of all of these items after May 10.

The Jeans Saga (Craftsy Course and a Finished Pair of Jeans)

I quite enjoyed Kenneth King’s Craftsy course, Jeanius, an online video class that teaches you how to make a jeans pattern using a pair of jeans you already own that fit well.  He breaks the jeans into logical steps, and explains things clearly.  My one complaint with the class was that the brown fabric he used in the videos made it hard to see the details on my computer.

The jeans I used in this course came from the kids section and fit much better than any juniors or womens jeans that I’ve tried on. These jeans have the distinction of being one of 3 pairs of jeans that I’ve ever bought that did not have to be significantly shortened.  I got them at Kohls on sale, on sale with an extra coupon, so they were like $10.  I love the way they fit, but I don’t love the bold topstitching (not the traditional jeans yellow-gold, but a mix of white and brown) or the very apparent fading on the front and back thighs.  In short, I think they look like kids jeans.

I watched all the videos before starting to make my pattern, which I think helped me figure out who all the pieces he had us make actually came together.  The pieces that I ended up with after copying the pattern from my favorite jeans looked completely different from both the McCall’s and Butterick patterns that I had previously looked at.  No wonder I had such trouble with the McCall’s pattern.

That’s not to say that my pattern didn’t need some tweaks and alteration; it did.  The yoke was too large and the back rise wasn’t high enough, so the yoke seam felt like my pants were constantly falling down even though they are not nearly as low-rise as what’s in stores. I had large folds under the seat and some pulls/wrinkles in the front that I didn’t like. The back gaped majorly; there was a several inch gap between my back and the waistband.

While the first pair I made, in a nearly black denim with black topstitching is wearable, it needs a belt to stay put, and I don’t always want to wear a belt.  When I made them in a regular denim, with colored topstitching, I started to really notice the flaws mentioned above. I figure that if I’m putting all this effort into making a pair of jeans, I really want them to fit well. Not perfect, but relatively close.

I went ahead and finished the blue denim pair with the too-big yoke. Of course, between when I started, when I got frustrated with the fit, and when I finished, I lost the piece that I had cut for belt loops, so this pair is belt loop-less, and a smidge too loose in the waist. Still wearable, though, especially if I tuck a tank top/cami in, then leave my shirt untucked.  I have since changed the yoke and waistband, and my next version looks like the back will fit a lot better.

The other problem I ran into was buttonholes.  I did most of the sewing on these on my Singer 15-22, which is a straight stitch only machine.  I tried doing a buttonhole on my computerized Babylock, but the machine ate my denim.  Three times.  So, I ordered a vintage Singer buttonholer on ebay to go with the 15-22.  Then spent the next two weeks waiting impatiently for my package. This buttonholer easily made pretty buttonholes in several layers of denim with no problem at all.

I think I’m on a jeans making marathon now that I have my pattern worked out. I have plans for another pair with the standard yellow-gold topstitching (hemmed for flats, since the ones above are hemmed for heels), one with red topstitching and embroidered detailing on the pockets, one pair that is red denim, and maybe another pair of ‘dressier’ jeans with black denim and neutral topstitching.

Quest for a Professional Purse

I’ve been using my current purse for almost a year and a half.  I made it before I got my serger. Before I really cared about things like interfacing and reinforcing my fabric. Before I cared about using quality thread.  In other words, before I really believed that I could make things that were worthwhile and good enough to really be used. In spite of all of that, it quickly became my favorite purse.  I used it year-round, even though it was a heavy blue/beige woven, wintery-looking home decor fabric, and got compliments on it all the time.  I loved everything about it.  However, it has finally lost its shape and begun falling apart.  As I’ve been interviewing, I started thinking that maybe it wasn’t quite the most professional looking bag I could be using.

Since I love everything about this bag, there wasn’t a doubt in my mind that I would use the same pattern.  What is this pattern, you may ask?  The Evelyn Handbag by Chris W Designs. Evelyn is really the perfect size bag for me.  It is small enough that it doesn’t take over my petite (4′ 10″) body, but large enough to hold all of the stuff that I haul around on a daily basis, including my HP netbook.  At one point, I crammed my netbook, Kindle, portable GPS, wallet, phone, and a reusable shopping bag into this little bag, and it all fit more-or-less comfortably, without straining any seams.

I knew I wanted a neutral color and fabric for this bag, one that would look good with almost any outfit.  I found this cool faux suede at JoAnn several months ago that I bought with the intention of making a case for my new (then) Kindle Paperwhite.  I haven’t yet managed to create or find a Kindle case pattern that does exactly what I wanted, so the fabric sat in my closet.  I have a huge stash of home decor fabrics that would make a great Evelyn bag, but none spoke to me quite the way this suede did.  It’s a kind of brown, kind of black blend of colors that changes depending on the way the light hits it (which you can easily see in the following pictures, all taken at the same time, in the same spot, with the same lighting and same camera settings).

Brown Faux Suede Evelyn Bag Front

Although I tweaked the pattern a little, changing the types and amount of interfacing,  width of the strap, interior pockets, the finished purse looks almost exactly like the designer’s pictures of the bag.  I did miss a step (step 7d, sewing the straps to the body of the bag), but it didn’t render the bag unusable.

I love all of the pockets in this bag.  Between the three large patch pockets on the lining, the two elastic pockets on the sides, and the zippered pocket on the back, there is plenty of room to keep all of my stuff organized.

 

 

I love my new bag.  It is everything that I hoped for when I started, nice/neutral enough that I can take it on an interview, yet casual enough that I can carry it when I go on errands.  I am looking forward to making yet another Evelyn bag in fun spring/summer colors.

The Jeans Saga (Muslins, Muslins, and More Muslins)

I’ve never been impulsive.  I try to think everything through.  Which, I guess is why it has taken me so long to make progress on my jeans.  I have been almost obsessively studying jeans and learning about their construction for the past several months.  I’ve been reading about them online and in books, looking at them in both high- and low-end stores, and covertly checking out the jeans on people that I see walking down the street.  All in my quest to make the “perfect” fitting pair of jeans.

Armed with McCall’s 6610, Butterick 5682, and Kenneth King’s Craftsy course, Jeanius, I began working on my first muslin. Since none of my current jeans had quite the fit I was hoping for, I started with McCall’s 6610, a relatively new pattern that had one glowing review on patternreview.com and several good reviews on various blogs. I should have been able to guess right off the bat that this pattern wouldn’t work for me, but I didn’t listen to the measurements (neither mine, nor the ones on the pattern) and went ahead and traced the smallest option. To start with, the pattern pieces were almost as tall as I am. Even after following their petite alterations suggestions, the pattern was a good 8+ inches too long (and also way too loose/baggy and all around too big, but that’s another matter). After sewing up the muslin, and standing in front of a mirror, I decided that no amount of moving fabric around would help the pants become anything close to wearable.

Not wanting a repeat of this, instead of making a muslin of Butterick 5682, I simply looked at the pattern pieces in comparison with the McCall’s 6610 pieces. They were just as ginormous. I guess there’s a reason I have such trouble buying RTW clothes. I’m just too tiny.
Since the Butterick pattern was just as big as the McCall’s, I decided to change course and try copying a pattern from my current jeans with the Craftsy course.

After weeks of working on my jeans pattern, all I have to show for my work is a huge pile of muslins on the floor. Which roughly equates to 8 different muslins that I consider ill-fitting failures for one reason or another. And none of which are special enough to warrant taking and posting any photos.

I’m still working with the jeans pattern from the Craftsy class.   I think I almost have a working pattern and/or a wearable muslin (after numerous unwearable muslins). I’m happy enough with what I got from that to give the pattern its own post, so look for that in the next few days.

Jeans

I have this crazy desire to make a pair of jeans.  I suspect it came from a recent failed shopping trip in which no pants that I tried on fit the way I wanted to.  From the waistband to the pocket size/placement to cut, color, and general fit (not including length – I’ve never bought a pair of jeans that didn’t have to be shortened), there are seemingly a million little things that make jeans not fit right.  And I’m tired of feeling like I failed at basic shopping.

So, I’ve picked up several patterns (McCalls 6610 and Butterick 5682) as well as a Kenneth King class on Craftsy.com about making jeans.  I suspect my final jeans will be some combination of all of those.  Stay tuned for what I expect will be several wearable and not-so-wearable muslins.